Monday, 20 August 2012

Questions WE have for YOU to Answer

Here is a quiz we have for you guys to try out! All the answers can be found within our blog, so all you have to do is find the correct answer (or if your memory is REALLY good, the answer would probably already be in your head) and click on the "comment" button below and answer the questions! Please remember to indicate the question number before each answer! Don't worry, you do not need to answer every single question! Just try your best! However, if you DO answer every question and they are all CORRECT, we will give you a chance to make your VERY OWN BLOG POST on our blog!!! Yay!

(remember: this is based on a first-come-first-serve basis, so there is no point copying the answers of someone else who posted a comment before you. also, blog content would be examined before being posted, so no inappropriate or red-ear-slider-unrelated content is allowed)

Questions:

  1. Give two ways you can determine the gender of a mature red ear slider.
  2. Describe the process of mating between two red ear sliders of opposite genders.
  3. What is one way a red ear slider may face death if not taken care of properly as an egg of hatchling?
  4. Suggest two reasons why the tank of a red ear slider should be large.
  5. Give three examples of food a red ear slider may eat.
  6. Name two places a red ear slider can be found.
  7. Give a detailed description of a red ear slider.
Good luck!:D

Characteristics of Red Ear Sliders Part 3

Hatching!!!
60 to 90 days after the eggs are laid, the eggs start to hatch. If sliders are hatched during the cold season, they rest in the nest until it becomes warm again.


When the egg hatches, the turtle uses a small egg tooth to tear open the shell. This egg tooth falls off about an hour after the turtle's hatching. The turtle may stay in its shell for one to two days before coming out. An egg sac is attached to its body, which is necessary for nourishment. After a few days, the sac is absorbed into the turtle's belly, leaving a split on the turtle's body. The split has to heal before allowing the turtle to swim.

Death may result if the eggs or hatchlings are not properly taken care of. An egg flipped upside down would cause the turtle to try to turn over with the egg sac, which allows air to enter the body cavity. It could also cause the egg sac to smother the embryo. Also, if the split on the turtle's body is not properly healed and water is allowed into it, the danger is fatal

Source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red-eared_slider#Hatching

Thursday, 16 August 2012

Characterstics of red ear sliders part 2! :)

Mating of red eared sliders
This blog post is about how red eared sliders mate with each other. This is so that we can understand more about how the red eared sliders mate and reproduce to ensure a continuation of their species. 

Mating of the red eared sliders begins with a sexually mature male performing an elaborate courtship. Young males will also try even though they are not sexually mature.

During the courtship, a male swim backwards in front of the female in a face to face position in an attempt to get the female's attention. This will be followed by a vibrating or shaking of his long nails very quickly in her face. If the female is willing, she would sink to the bottom for mating. The male will mount her and position his tail under hers. He will then release his front legs and stabilise in a vertical position. If the female is not willing, she may become aggressive to the male.
Two turtles mating!

Two to three weeks after mating, the female will become gravid, meaning that it is carrying the eggs internally. The female usually lays around 2 to 30 eggs, depending on the size of the female.

This courtship and mating process normally occurs through the months of March and June. However, turtles in captive may try to mate year round if they live in a more controlled environment.

Two red eared sliders mating
Sources:http://myredearedslider.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/08/red-eared-slider-mating-on-a-log.jpg
http://www.redearslider.com/reproduction.html
http://exoticpets.about.com/od/aquaticturtles/qt/turtleclawflutt.htm



Wednesday, 15 August 2012

Charecteristics of red ear sliders! :D Part one

Red Ear Slider Characteristics! :)
Hallo! This post is on the characteristics of red ear sliders so that we know how to identify them. We will also learn about how they are different from other organisms. 

Size
The hatchlings of red ear sliders are about 1 inch in diameter.  However, though they may be small at birth, these red ear sliders can grow to large sizes if they are well taken care of and if they live long enough. The biggest red ear slider is a whopping 17-inches long!






What a large difference! :)


Appearance
The skin of a Red-eared Slider is green with bright yellow stripes. A patch of red behind each eye is the reason why Red-eared Slider is its name. Some turtles may also have a small patch of red on top of their heads. 
The Red-eared Slider also has webbed feet and strong claws. The shell of hatchlings is green with a  pattern of yellow-green to dark green markings. As the turtles mature, the carapace may become yellow or olive green, with the pattern changing into dark lines or patches on each scute. 
Portions of the shell may be white, yellow, or  red. As the turtle grows older,  the lines and patches may slowly disappear until the shell is a uniform dark olive green or greenish-brown. Some male turtles will become uniformly dark gray or black.

Sources:
 http://animal.discovery.com/guides/reptiles/turtles/slider.html
 http://www.redearslider.com/anatomy.html
 http://redearedsliderblog.com/red-eared-slider-characteristics-2/

How to Care for Your Turtle Part 2 :)

Hey! This post, part 2 on How to  Care for Your Turtle, will be on how to create an appropriate habitat for your  pet.

If you are a new turtle owner, or plan to get one soon, the first step to establish a suitable habitat is to provide an adequate tank or pond. Yes, we know you're probably going, "Duh," but you'll be surprised at how many new owners are uninformed when they realise that taking care of a turtle is that hard and complicated. Also, wrong equipment may be bought with the assurance of equally uninformed or blur pet store employees. You, as the owner, should not be reluctant to buy the right supplies or things that your turtle needs, as the wrong habitat might just lead to your turtle becoming ill later on.


Most of the basic requirements to think through when setting up a tank is self-explanatory. Having a large tank will benefit the turtle and you. Don't forget, your small, cute little 'darling' will one day grow up to 10-12 inches long. So, to provide maximum comfort for your turtle, a larger tank is necessary. To save money, buy a bigger tank from the very beginning. It provides your weeny hatchling with some exercise too. Too small a tank will require water changes and cleaning very frequently. It can also cause your turtle to suffer from poor mental health, disease and physical injury. Can you imagine a berserk, sick turtle that keeps bashing itself against the sides of the tank because its negligent owner refuses to get a bigger tank for it?

The tank should ideally provide enough water to prevent the turtle from becoming dried up. The water level should be as high a possible but not too high to let it slip out and run all over your house or garden. A safe minimum will be keeping the water level as high as the shell of your turtle turned vertically. And don't overlook the fact that red ear sliders are notorious climbers whose ability to get out of an unsecured enclosure cannot be underestimate. 

Also, decide carefully where to place your turtle's comfy home. It should be somewhere where there is low-traffic and that is dark and quiet at night. Do not keep the tank  near a window, where there is direct sunlight otherwise it will cause any type of glass, acrylic, plastic tank or container to experience wild and fluting temperature gradients with very high temperatures. A tank with no cover should also be kept away from cold drafts. An open window or air-conditioner can be dangerous as they could cause respiratory infections to your turtle.

Below are some advantages and disadvantages of indoor habitats:

Advantages
  • Better protection from predators
  • More frequent interaction with your turtle
  • Better regulation of basking and water temperatures
  • Better opportunities to view your turtle
  • Better chance of finding an escaped turtle
  • Easier to maintain and regulate feeding schedules
Disadvantages
  • Generally more expensive equippment required
  • Takes up more space in your home
  • Accidents are more difficult to deal with
  • Turtle is in a more restrictive environment
  • Might be more stressful for turtle
  • Turtle may sustain greater injuries in an escape
Now we'll move on to outdoor habitats. 

Keeping your  Red Ear Slider outdoors will offer a larger range of chances to create a more natural environment for your turtle. It will definitely be a more satisfying experience to observe a turtle as it is in its natural habitat. However, the initial start-up costs more than that of an indoor tank and will also require more effort and creativity. A fairly large amount of space would also be needed.
A fully functioning and problem-free outdoor habitat will require less maintenance and can house more proper nesting and basking areas. And some costly equipment can be replaced with free things E.g.: Expensive UV bulbs can be replaced with free, unfiltered sunlight. However, some things like water filters cannot be replaced or omitted. A good water heater is also recommended. And also, your turtle should be in good health as they will battle the elements. Hatchlings should be taken care of indoors first till they grow a bit older and can swim quite well.  

Since you'll probably not want to make any future upgrades,  don't forget to add in space to swim in and factor in any new turtles or babies when choosing the size of the habitat. It is very essential not to overcrowd a habitat as that would lead to aggression, harassment, injuries and increased load on the filter. 

Below are some advantages and disadvantages of a outdoor habitat:

 
Advantages 

  • Generally the equipment is less costly,  however, start-up costs may be significantly more
  • Takes up no space in a home
  • Turtle is in a more natural environment
  • Possibly less stressful for turtle
  • Less maintenance required
  • Opportunity to view or observe your turtle naturally
Disadvantages

  • Takes up more space in garden or yard
  • Predators are a regular threat
  • Usually less interaction with your turtle
  • Less regulation of basking and water temperatures
  • May be more difficult finding an escaped turtle
  • Turtle may have to be brought in during extreme weather
Thank you for reading this post! Stay tuned for more info!



Monday, 30 July 2012

How to care for your turtle part 1

Red-eared Sliders are decent beginner turtles for people with large aquariums or outdoor garden ponds (if deep enough) to house them year round. 

The turtles are hardy and they can tolerate a range of different conditions. For example, they are not fussy about the temperature or pH of their habitat. They are also comfortable around people and will beg for food (this depends on the turtle itself) and adjust quickly to both commercial and natural food. 

Some of the male turtles can get medium large while the females can grow to be quite large. This might cause them to fight for tank space with other smaller turtle species. Also, because they are larger and stronger than other species, placing Red Ear Sliders with other species might not be such a good idea...

Lastly males are known to harass females, so permanent separation is often necessary. And like all other species, any specific turtle might be naturally aggressive or any pair of turtles might not be able to stay in the same tank. So if you, the owner, see any signs of harassment or fighting, do separate your turtles. 

Diet
Red Ear Sliders are omnivores throughout their lives, though they progress from predominantly carnivorous as juveniles to predominately herbivores as adults. But adults prefer meaty foods over vegetables, if given a choice. Thus, some owners or keepers might give them too much protein due to their raw drive to gorge on high protein foods. But, (take note) this may cause very rapid growth and a pyramided shell and, also, is suspected to cause liver and kidney damage, as well as a shortened life span.

Thus, do check on the turtle's diet regularly and make sure it gets a low-volume, well-rounded diet. 
Red Ear Sliders will eat:

1. most commercial turtle food,
2. feeder fish,
3. crickets,
4. earthworms,
5. krill,
6. blood worms, 
7. some crayfish and ghost shrimp,
8. aquatic plants (e.g.: duckweed, water lettuce, pondweed)
9. some vegetables (e.g.: romaine lettuce, zucchini) and
10. some fruits 

Many owners use good commercial diets as the main part of the diet, usually 25-80% of the carnivorous portion of the diet, and add some treats of earth worms, crayfish or krill, and romaine lettuce as a staple for the herbivorous portion of the diet.

Red ear slider eating a meal!

Since wild Sliders most likely won't have fruits readily available, use of bananas and other fruits EXCEPT for rare treats is NOT, we repeat, NOT recommended. And please be humane, do not feed your poor turtle hairy animals, since hair is indigestible and can form hairballs and cause obstructions in the turtle. There have been cases of owners feeding hairless mouse pups to turtles...GROSS!!!

Recommended Feeding Schedule:

For the first 6 months of its life, you can feed it once daily commercial pellets and/or other food that are meaty (e.g.: earthworms crickets or fish);  feed it enough to reduce its appetite but do not over feed the turtle. After 6 months, switch to feeding it every other day. Romaine lettuce and other leafy vegetables may be left in the tank to allow the turtle to 'snack' when it becomes peckish. Over time, you can adjust it's diet contents and schedule to account for growth, activity and appetite. 

Recommendations for the amount of meaty food to feed the turtle may vary, so choose what is suitable for the turtle and do not over- or under-feed it! 

Some people feed enough to fill the back of the head to rear of the red patches, imagining it was hollow, while others let the turtle gorge twice a week. Still, others simply feed them enough to slake the turtle's appetite. 

Just for something to go by, for a 50-cent hatchling, 1 or 2, at most, regular pellets per day are sufficient.

This concludes Part 1 of How to care for your turtle, do read the rest! Thanks! 




Sources: http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/Care/caresheet-red_ear_slider.htm

Tuesday, 24 July 2012

Is it a Female... Or a Male?

The first things that come to your mind whenever you buy a pet is: is it a girl or a boy? If you do not know the answer to this question, how would you know what to name your pet? Or, if you want your pets to produce offspring, how would you know whether you bought the correct pets?

If the pet you want or have is a red ear slider, you have come to the right place! This post would tell you all you need to know about determining the gender of your red ear slider.

First of all, you cannot really tell the difference between a male and a female red ear slider until it has gotten bigger. Bigger in terms of both age and size. The males have to be two to four years old and bigger than four inches in order for it to show its gender properties. The females have to be three to five years old and bigger than five inches in order for it to do the same.


One way of determining the red ear slider's gender is by the location of the hole on its tail, otherwise known as the cloaca. For male red ear sliders, the cloaca is located at a lower part of the cloaca as compared to that of the female, where the cloaca is almost under the shell.


Another way is to look at the shape and size of the red ear slider's tail. Male red ear sliders' tails tend to be wider and longer than female red ear sliders' tails.

Also, the shape of the red ear slider's bottom shell, otherwise known as the plastron, may determine the sex of the red ear slider. If it is concave, it is probably a male, but if it is convex, it is probably a female. This allows for the female to carry more eggs and the male to rest nicely on the female when mating.

The length of the red ear slider's claws are affected by its gender. If it is male, it would have longer claws than females, as they need it to fight for the female red ear sliders to mate with.

The size of the female red ear slider is larger than that of the male red ear slider.

Now you know how to determine the sex of your red ear slider! Try to test a few factors instead of just one, as there may be a few exceptions to the species of red ear slider, which may make the factors differ.

Sources: http://www.wikihow.com/Tell-if-a-Turtle-Is-Male-or-Female